Basic Fragrance Formulations

Ingredients Eau de Parfum % Volume Eau de Toilette % Volume Eau de Cologne % Volume Body Splash % Volume Aftershave % Volume
Fragrance 15 - 25 8 – 15 3 - 8 2 - 4 1 - 3
Fixative (liquid) 0.5 – 0.8 0.4 – 0.5 0.2 – 0.4 0.1 – 0.2 0.1 – 0.2
DPG 2 - 4 2 - 4 2 - 4 2 - 4 2 - 4
Alcohol (perfume grade) 75 - 85 70 - 80 65 - 75 60 - 70 55 - 65
Distilled Water to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100


Procedure:

  1. Dissolve the fixative in the fragrance.
  2. Afterwards, dissolve the DPG in the mixture.
  3. Add the alcohol.
  4. Add the water slowly while mixing.
  5. If cloudy, add fragrance solubilizer drop by drop while mixing until solution clears up.


Formulating with Vodka

Vodka is the best substitute if perfume grade alcohol is not available, especially in countries with restrictions on sale and/or transport of ethyl alcohol. Compared to other alternatives, vodka helps to preserve the scent without overpowering the perfume.

Remember that vodka contains only 45 – 50% ethyl alcohol depending on the brand. The non-alcohol part of the vodka serves as "water" in your formulation.

The comparatively low alcohol level of vodka presents a unique formulation problem. Note that perfume grade alcohol is practically 100% pure. With vodka’s much reduced solubilizing power, formulations may become cloudy.

To address this problem, Chemworld Fragrance Factory developed a proprietary blend of perfume solubilizer called Solubilizer LA (low alcohol). Usual use level of Solubilizer LA is from 3% to 7% to achieve a clear solution. Start with eau de cologne or body splash formulation when experimenting with vodka.

Even with Solubilizer LA, some fragrance oils may remain cloudy as you increase fragrance oil concentration to 10% and over. Accelerated aging (in chiller) up to 2 weeks may help improve clarity. Below is a sample formulation:


Eau de Cologne

  Components % Volume
A Vodka 87.6
  Liquid Fixative 0.30
B Preservative 0.10
  DPG 2.00
C Solubilizer LA 5.0
  Fragrance Oil 5.0


Procedure:

  1. Mix A. Mix B. Mix C.
  2. Add C to A.
  3. Add B to AC.

Stir the mixture well and carefully pour into a dark glass (amber) bottle with a tight fitting lid. Shake and chill the bottle. You should allow the mixture to settle for at least 24 hours before checking again for cloudiness or separation.

Video

How to BLEND and SELL your own Perfume by Chemworld Fragran

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